By Joel Crockett and David Skibbins The town of Gualala, California, hangs over the Pacific Coast, almost two hours away from the nearest MacDonald's, Wal-Mart, Borders, or Safeway. To the south, cows walk unfenced across the only highway into town. In wet weather the river to the north inevitably floods, shutting off all traffic till it recedes. Fewer than 2,000 locals live here year round.